Yes, the moment you have all been waiting for! Here is the second square of the knit traveling afghan!

What am I talking about? - you say. Well, this is a project sponsored by Lion Brand where 49 different designers from all over the world work together to make two full afghans - one crochet and one knitted. Each designer will make a 10' x 10' square to add to the afghan before sending it off to the next designer in a different place in the world. I am second in the knit afghan and the first square was sent to me by Alexi of Two Of Wands all the way from New York City to my tiny village in Bulgaria. If you want more information and to have a closer look at the schedules, you can get more details HERE (Got questions? Check out the FAQ section at the bottom of the landing page).

Before I tell you about my square, let me just clarify that each designers has a 2 week span to publish their square. This is because the afghan is literally going around the world and it would be impossible to predict when each person will get it. So please, try to give the next designers time to post when they are ready. I promise, they WILL share their pattern with you!

Visit my fellow makers' blogs and get all of the patterns! I will be updating this list as the year goes by so that you can find them all in one place!

New York City, USA - Alexi of Two of Wands
Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria - Me! - Continue reading
Dublin, Ireland - Katie of The Queen Stitch
Nova Scotia, Canada - Kelly Brooks of Knitbrooks
Alberta, Canada - Stephanie Lau of All About Ami
Alberta, Canada - Chantal Miyagishima of Knitatude
BC, Canada - Christie Bodden of Christie Bodden Designs
Oregon, USA - Makenzie Alvarez of Hanks and Needles
California, USA - Phanessa Fong of Designs by Phanessa
California, USA - Angie Bivins of Whistle & Wool
California, USA - Jane Tsou of Gorilla Knits
Nevada, USA - Chenoa Wilcox of jellyKNITTING
Utah, USA - Rachel Misner of Evelyn & Peter
Colorado, USA - Jessica Potasz of Mama in a Stitch
Kansas, USA - Jerica Tompkins of Yarn Hook Needles
Kansas, USA - Mary Lee of Fifty Four Ten Studio
Minnesota, USA - Kaitlin Barthold of Originally Lovely
Minnesota, USA - Julia Anastasi of Northern Loop Knitwear
Winona, MN, USA - Trista Ziemendorf of While They Dream
Illinois, USA - Heidi Gustad of Hands Occupied
Illinois, USA - Jewell Washington of Northknits
Michigan, USA - Destiny Meyer of Knifty Knittings
Virginia, USA - Nathan Bryant of Loop N Threads
Rhode Island, USA - Jake Kenyon of Kenyarn
New Jersey, USA - Vanessa Coscarelli Black of Vanessa Knits

You can purchase an ad-free, printable PDF of the pattern HERE.

If you'd like to buy the kit directly from Lion Brand you can do so HERE.

#MyLifeInYarn

Now, let me tell you about my square!

I see my square as a bit of a family portrait. My husband and my baby girl are by far the biggest targets of my crafting obsession so I wanted to represent them in my square. We're also a bit of a mish mash family. My husband is a white, tall, red-haired, sports loving man from England. I am a brown, dark haired, crafts loving woman from Mexico. But we're both perfectly average - may I dare say, a bit like a stockinette stitch? Simple, yet wonderful in its own right.

And along comes Magnolia, just brightening our lives and making everything more beautiful. She was actually born in Bulgaria, the land of roses and so far is showing only our best qualities. She, you might say, is like the lace to our stockinette.

Anyway, here's the square. Each section representing a member of my family.

If you do end up making the square, make sure to tag me on social media (@NomadStitches) or Ravelry so that I can see it, and don't forget to use the hashtags #travelingafghans #mylifeinyarn #travelingknitafghan #travelingcrochetafghan #travelingafghannomadstitches

Now let's talk knitting. The square is made bottom up. It has a garter stitch border and the inside is divided by three sections: stockinette, reverse stockinette and lace. You will start by working the border and then the stockinette sections. Afterwards, you will decrease on one side of the stockinette sections and increase in the middle to make way for the lace section. When you start the lace section you can choose to follow the chart and the charted instructions or use the written directions provided.

The Essential Information

Get Printable PDF

Materials

YARN: Worsted yarn - Sample is used 31g of Wool-Ease by Lion Brand Yarn (aprox 72 yards).
NEEDLES: 5 mm or size needed to meet gauge.
NOTIONS: tapestry needle and 4 stitch markers.
GAUGE:18 sts x 24 rows of stockinette st= 4’ x 4’

Sizes + measurements

The square is 10’ x 10’ (25.4 cm x 25.4 cm).

Abbreviations (US)

CO: cast on
K: knit
K2tog: knit two together
M1R / M1L: Make one Right/Left
Mkr(s): marker(s)
P: purl
PM: place marker
RS: Right side
Sm: slip marker
Ssk: slip slip knit
Ssp: Slip slip purl
Sk2po: Slip, knit two together, pass over
Skpo: Slip, knit, pass over
sl: slip stitch
st: stitch
WR: Wrong side
Wyf: with yarn in front
YO: Yarn over

Important Techniques

M1R: pick up the bar between the last stitch you knit and the next one, bringing the needle from the back to the front. Then knit into the front of this stitch.
M1L: Pick up the bar between the stitch you knit and the next one, bringing the needle from front to back. Then knit into the back of the stitch.
Ssp: Slip 2 knit-wise, slide back to left needle, purl two together through the back loop.
Ssk: Slip 2 knit-wise, insert left needle into these two stitches and knit them together.
Sk2po: Slip one knit-wise, knit next two stitches together, pass slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.
Skpo: Slip one knit-wise, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitch over the stitch you just knit.

I know what you're thinking: "That's a lot of abbreviations and a lot of important techniques!". But don't worry, here you can find clear video instructions for each of the stitches in this square. These squares are such a great opportunity to learn new things. It's not like you're making a whole jumper or shawl! I mean, seriously, 45 stitches per row! See it as a challenge and go do a happy dance once you've mastered these techniques!

The Pattern

It appears that I let excitement get the better of me and the first version had a few errors that I let slip by. Sorry about that. I really hope it didn't cause you too much trouble. They should all be solved now, but please contact me if you are unsure about something. Thank you for your understanding and happy knitting! (Last pattern edit: Jan 28, 2020)

CO 45

ROW 1 - 4: Sl1 wyf, k to end, turn.

ROW 5 (RS): Sl1 wyf, k3, PM, k17, PM, sl1, p1, sl1 (these 2 sts will be slipped purlwise with yarn in the back from here on), PM, k17, PM, k4, turn.

ROW 6 (WS): Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 7: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, sl1, p1, sl1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 8: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROWS 9 - 14: Repeat Rows 7 and 8.

ROW 15: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 16: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

You can now continue and follow the written instructions or skip ahead to the charted instructions.

Written instructions

ROW 17: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 18: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 19: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 20: Rep Row 18.

ROW 21: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 22: Rep Row 18.

ROW 23: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k2, YO, k1, YO, k2, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 24: Rep Row 18.

ROW 25: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, ssk, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 26: Rep Row 18.

ROW 27: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, k2, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 28: Rep Row 18.

ROW 29: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 30: Rep Row 18.

ROW 31: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k4, YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k4, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 32: Rep Row 18.

ROW 33: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k5, YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k5, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 34: Rep Row 18.

ROW 35: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, (YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, k1) twice, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 36: Rep Row 18.

ROW 37: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k2, (YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k1) twice, k1, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 38: Rep Row 18.

ROW 39: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k3, (YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k1) twice, k2, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 40: Rep Row 18.

ROW 41: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k4, (YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k1) twice, k3, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 42: Rep Row 18.

ROW 43: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO, (k1, YO, ssk, k5, k2tog, YO) twice, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 44: Rep Row 18.

ROW 45: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, k1, (YO, k1, ssk, k3, k2tog, k1, YO, k1) 3 times, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 46: Rep Row 18.

You should have 4 sts of border at each side, 1 st in between the 1st and 2nd mkr and the 3rd and 4th mrk; and 35 sts in between the 2nd and 3rd mkr.

ROW 47: Sl1 wyf, k2, sl 1 to remove mkr and return st to left needle, k2tog, remove mkr, sl1, M1L, k2, (YO, k2, ssk, k1, k2tog, k2, YO, k1) 3 times, k1, M1R, sl1, remove mkr, sl1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 48: Sl1 wyf, k3, p37, k to end, turn.

ROW 49: Sl1 wyf, k2, k2tog, M1L, k3, (YO, k3, sk2po, k3, YO, k1) 3 times, k2, M1R, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 50: Sl1 wyf, k3, PM, p37, PM, k to end, turn.

ROW 51: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k6, (k2tog, YO, k1, YO, ssk, k5) 3 times, k1, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 52: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, p to mkr, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 53: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k5, (k2tog, k1, YO, k1, YO, k1, ssk, k3) 3 times, k2, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 54: Rep Row 52.

ROW 55: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k4, (k2tog, k2, YO, k1, YO, k2, ssk, k1) 3 times, k3, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 56: Rep Row 52.

ROW 57:

Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k3, k2tog, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3, (sk2po, k3, YO, k1, YO, k3) 2 times, ssk, k3, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 58: Rep Row 52 - remove mkrs.

ROW 59 - 63: Sl1 wyf, knit to end, turn.

Bind off on WS.

Charted Instructions

Follow the chart provided at the bottom where it says <CHART>. The rows on the chart match the rows on these instructions.

ROW 17: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to 2 before mkr, skpo, sm, sl1, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, sl1, sm, ssp, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 18: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, k to mkr, sm, p2, <CHART>, p2, sm, p to mkr, k to end, turn.

ROW 19 - 46: Repeat Rows 17 and 18.

You should have 4 sts of border at each side, 1 st in between the 1st and 2nd mkr and the 3rd and 4th mrk; and 35 sts in between the 2nd and 3rd mkr.

ROW 47: Sl1 wyf, k2, sl 1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, k2tog, remove mkr, sl1, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, sl1, remove mkr, sl1 to remove mkr, and return st to left needle, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 48: Sl1 wyf, k 3, p2, <CHART>, p2, k to end, turn.

ROW 49: Sl1 wyf, k2, k2tog, M1L, <CHART>, M1R, ssk, k to end, turn.

ROW 50: Sl1 wyf, k 3, PM, p1, <CHART>, p1, PM, k to end, turn.

ROW 51 - 58: Sl1 wyf, k to mkr, sm, <CHART>, sm, k to end, turn.

ROW 59 - 63: Sl1 wyf, knit to end, turn. Bind off on WS.

Chart

The chart is read bottom - up and right to left. Remember that you will purl on every stitch of the chart when working on the Wrong Side.

Finishing touches

Weave in all ends.
Block your square.

Joining your knit squares

You can use whatever technique you prefer to join your squares, but my favorite is to simply sew them up together.

For that I will cut a scrap piece of yarn (about 3 times the length of the seam) and will thread it through a tapestry needle.

Then I will place the squares on top of each other right-side in and will hold them together in place with some pins.

After that, just sew them together with your needle, starting by making a little knot at one corner. Since each square will be designed by different people, they won't necessarily have the same amount of rows or stitches, so try to even them out but don't worry about matching the rows or stitches from one square to the other. You should go through both loops of the side of my square, though.

Traveling Afghan: The Second Knit Square